Torre de Vargens & Portalegre, Portugal

March 1, 2000

Torre de Vargens - a typical Portuguese country town. Portalegre - a typical Portuguese city.

Hey, not all places can be cool and without the regular everyday places, I really wouldn´t have a feel for the country. It´s a little more conservative here and a lot slower. If I´m wearing my pack and a t-shirt old ladys scorn me even if I´m ultra polite. If I´m wearing my button down shirt and have no pack, they smile and say "Bom diá!"

Here the country, I say ´bom dia´ and the men reply, "deeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaah." Told ya it was slower here.

I´m determined to reach my destination (Évora). One taxi, 2 trains (19 hours of waiting time total), 14 kilometers of walking (with luggage... no money left for a bus until the next banco autmatico) and 2 buses later, I will reach Évora.

At least the walk was able to give me an intimate look at a country highway stretch in Portugal. Cork trees with the bark peeled off the first 10 feet and a number painted on them are everywhere (even along side the railroad and in the thick). There are some sheep and hogs and a lot of bulls living it up before the they win a slow slaughter in the ring.

Mole skin has saved the day. I´ve forgotten the blister and imagine how great sleeping at taking a shower (it´s almost day 3 with out so far) will be. I don´t think I smell, but who cares? Like I said, there´s nothing out here. Most of the towns aren´t even on a map.

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